Sociology was Demna Gvasalia’s favourite subject at school. Considering the latest Vetements collection, that’s perhaps not surprising. For their AW17 show, presented in the famous foyer of the Centre Pompidou during Paris Couture week, the unruly fashion collective explored the idea of how clothes are used to construct identity. From the invitations (fake ID cards from around the world, printed with guests’ names) to the accessories, it was an exercise in what Gvasalia called a “fascination with social uniforms and how people dress.”
Reflecting this, the models embodied a series of separate characters, inspired by the style stereotypes captured by Ari Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek in their famous long-standing project Exactitudes – where individual portraits are grouped together to reveal the sartorial similarities that define certain groups or subcultures. In the show, as in the book, each archetype had a name, as well as their own individual story. “We really got into the details of their lives, how they wear things,” Gvasalia said post-show.
Read a Dazed article dedicated to Arie Versluis and Ellie Uyttenbroek's Exactitudes here
More on that project at the Exactitudes site